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Bugaboo Spire  British Columbia . Value: 10
Height: 3204 m (10512 ft) Prominence: 438 m  
Line Parent: Howser Spire(2 km away, at bearing 224 degrees)
Location: 50:44:44-116:47:20   50.74556-116.78889   11U 514895 5621552     NAD27: 11U 514895 5621333
NTS Map: 082.K.10 (34 km SW of Spillimacheen).
Name Status: Official

Regions: Continental Columbia / Purcell / Bugaboos

First Ascent: Tuesday August 29, 1916 Conrad Kain; Albert MacCarthy, E. MacCarthy, John Vincent
The Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire
The Bugaboo Spire sits about 2 km east of the Columbia-Kootenay divide, between the Vowell Glacier to the west and the Crescent Glacier to the east. It offers some of the most spectacular alpine climbs climbing areas in Canada. First climbed by Conrad Kain and party in 1916, who applied the name Bugaboo to the peak for its famous gendarme. The name "Bugaboo" was used by miners to refer to Bugaboo Creek and Bugaboo Pass, but Kain certainly felt the name matched the peak. Bugaboo means "An object of obsessive, usually exaggerated fear or anxiety. As in: "Boredom, laziness and failure . . . These bugaboos, magnified by imagination, keep the workaholic running".

At the time of the first ascent, while Canada was engaged in World War I, it was the hardest technical climb to date and one of the finest moments of Canadian mountaineering. The climb in August 1916 was the crowning point of Conrad Kain's career. In the spring of 1917, Conrad Kain married H. Ferreira, and settled down at Wilmer, 5 km north of Invermere in the Columbia Valley. In addition to his marriage, the entry of the United States into the First World War probably reduced the flow of his mostly American clients into Canada.

Trip Reports
45 KMC 2005 Climbing Camp - The Vowells Doug Brown (Nelson)
38 Snowpatch Spire, "Snowpatch Route" Route Michael Stanton
37 Bugaboo Northeast Ridge Route Mike Warren
20 Bugaboo Spire - Kain route Drew Brayshaw
12 Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge and Summit Ridge Traverse Route Toby Johnson

Subject Trips
KMC 2005 Climbing Camp - The Vowells
Bugaboo Northeast Ridge
Bugaboo Spire - Kain route
Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge and Summit Ridge Traverse

Topo Maps

Nearby Lodge
Conrad Kain Hut 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
21 The Bugaboos and the Vowell Glacier Doug Brown (Nelson)
16 On the Northeast Arête of Bugaboo Spire Michael Stanton
14 Bugaboo Spire Mike Warren
14 Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Doug Brown (Nelson)
13 Crossing the Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire Rick Collier
10 Upper Bits of Bugaboo Spire Mike Warren
8 Bugaboo Spire North Face John Scurlock
8 Esther on Pitch 4 Mike Warren
8 Esther Topping Out on Lion's Way Mike Warren
7 The Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire Drew Brayshaw
6 Mike Budd on the Great Gendarme Rick Collier
6 Bugaboo Spire - NE Ridge Paul Baker

Placename Photos
13 The Bugs: A View Northwest from the Catamount Stephen Skog
8 Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboo Spire, Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col Panorama Alex Joseph
7 Looking West to the Bugaboos from Frenchman Mountain Dan Richardson
7 Below the Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Drew Brayshaw
6 Helicopter Rescue in the Bugaboos Hans Bauck
6 The Bugaboos from Brenta Spire Paul Baker
6 Bugaboo Spire Hans Bauck
5 Bugaboo - Blizzard on the Kain Route Pierre Signore
5 Bugaboo Spire - East Face Pierre Signore
5 Bugaboo Spire from the Kain Hut Back Door Drew Brayshaw
4 Climbing the North East Ridge on Bugaboo Spire Toby Johnson

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