Mount Garibaldi

Located northeast of Squamish on the southwest corner of Garibaldi Park. Mount Garibaldi is a large dormant volcano, lying between the popular Garibaldi Lake area to its north and the Diamond Head area to the south. It has a small icefield to the east called the Garibaldi Neve which is frequently crossed as a 2 or 3 day ski trip. Visible from the head of Howe Sound, and from Squamish.

Atwell Peak on the south edge of the Garibaldi massif was first sighted by ship from Howe Sound. Mount Garibaldi was probably the first of the truly alpine peaks in the Coast Mountains to be climbed.

Name Notes: Named Mount Garibaldi in 1860 by Captain Richards, of the Royal Navy, after Giuseppe Garibaldi (1807-1882) the great Italian patriot who that year had succeeded in unifying Italy. Recently several first nations names have also been created or discovered for the peak. One nameis Ta Nch'qai' (the "Grimy One"). Another one Chief Ian Campbell says that Squamish Nations' official name for the mountain is Nch'kay (pronounced Chuck-eye), same origin as Cheekeye.

Insert Access / Route
1. Access via Elfin Lakes From the Diamond Head parking lot, hike to Elfin Lakes, then down into Ring Creek. A typical camp is just W of Opal Cone. (See Neve Route descriptions). From this access point one can either do the Atwell-Garibaldi col route, or the normal northeast face route.
2. Access via Brohm Ridge Drive to the highest point on Cheekye FSR and park at the gate. Walk the remaining road then continue along the top of Brohm Ridge to the Warren Glacier. This is the north access route for the NE Face and N face routes on Mt. Garibaldi.
3. Access via Brohm Ridge from Switft Creek From Highway 99, hike along the Swift Creek Road then climb up through clearcut to western end of Brohm Ridge. Then follow Brohm Ridge eastward and swing around the north end of Mount Garibaldi, crossing the Warren Glacier, and then the NE ridge to get onto the North Pitt Glacier. Then up to summit via normal "neve" route.
4. Northeast Face (Normal Route) ((early) August 1907) A. Dalton; W. Dalton; Atwell King; T. Pattison; J.J.Trorey; G.Warren. Steep snow (45 degrees). Ice axe, light rope. From the glacier just north of The Tent at 2400m, kick steps in a fairly straight line up the 45 degree snow slopes to a saddle just north of the final peak. Cross the bergshrund (usually filled with snow March-June) just below the ridgeline, then gain the ridge. From the col on the NW ridge, walk up the ridge to the summit. Most parties have ice axe and rope, but often don't use rope. The peak is often climbed as part of a ski traverse of the Neve. If bergschrund causes problems, it can be bypassed on either side, although this is steeper and more exposed. The first ascent is described in the CAC 1907-08 journal, pp.205-211 and involved following the Tsee-Ki (now Cheekye) River to its source, from where the Warren Gl. Neve was gained and ascended to the base of the East face. (2 hours from neve)
5. East Face (via Atwell-Garibaldi Col) Class 3-4 with rappels, rockfall danger. Two full length ropes, helmet, slings, ice axe, crampons. Climb east facing slopes to reach the Garibaldi-Atwell col at 2520 m. Then climb the obvious couloir on the west side of the summit pyramid. The final climb is only recommended if snow covered due to extremely loose rock. (5 hours up from camp on Ring Glacier, 20 minutes to climb summit pyramid)

Trip Reports
58 Garibaldi Neve Traverse...The Ideal Trip! Justin Bennett
52 Not Atwell Peak Again! Fred Touche
50 North East Route - Mount Garibaldi Henrik Hinkkala
45 The 1998 Garibaldi Neve Traverse: Cold, Confusion and Clouded Judgement Steve Grant
44 Skunked Again on Atwell Fred Touche
41 Brohm Ridge - Garibaldi/Dalton Dome - Elfin Lakes traverse in summer Bram van Straaten
37 Swift Creek Route to Mount Garibaldi Robin Tivy
36 Garibaldi Névé under ideal conditions Wilf LeBlanc
31 Mount Garibaldi (With Photos) Richard Howard
29 Garibaldi - East Face, South of Summit Pyramid - Major Guidebook Problem Paul Adam
28 Heat Exhaustion on Mount Garibaldi Scott Nelson
28 My First Garibaldi Neve Traverse Steve Grant
22 Garibaldi Névé - La traversée annuelle du BCMC Pierre Signore
21 Adam/Culbert Route (E Face of Atwell-Garibaldi Col, then W Face of Pyramid) Route Robin Tivy
20 Bears! on Brohm Ridge (Towards Garibaldi) Gary Sutton
20 Garibaldi - Ascension en solo par la face nord-est. Pierre Signore

Topo Maps
Bivouac Backcountry Series - Garibaldi Park Area Clark Geomatics 1:50000 25 m 

Placename Photos
16 Atwell Peak in Winter Don Funk
14 Gargoyles and Atwell Steve Sproule
14 Full Panorama from Top of Mount Sedgwick Keith Freeman
12 Omega from Iota Ramsay Dyer
11 Hops Peak and Mount Garibaldi Klaus Haring
11 Guard Mountain, Mount Garibaldi, and the Table at Sunset Alan Nurmeste
10 Atwell Peak in Spring Don Funk
10 Forger Glacier Labelled Mini-Panorama Jeff Volp
9 Atwell Peak - South Ridge Don Funk
9 Blanca Lake and the Approach Ridge Greg Jones
8 Columnar and the Gargoyles in Morning Sun Steve Sproule
7 Atwell and Garibaldi from near Mount Alpen Drew Brayshaw
6 View of Pyramid Mountain, the Mamquam Icefield and Mamquam Mountain from Elfin Lakes Lee Lau
6 Columnar Peak; the Gargoyles and the Peaks of Garibaldi Hidden in Cloud - Panorama from Elfin Lakes Lee Lau
6 Atwell Peak in Late Summer Don Funk
5 View From Panorama Ridge Fred Touche
5 Atwell Peak - North Ridge Pierre Signore