Insert Access / Route
1. SW Ridge from Sphinx Pass (1911) Large BCMC party. class 3 scramble. (Normal route). From Sphinx Glacier, climb west up the the low angle snow ramp to gain the ridge at Sphinx Pass (030272). Ascend the ridge using easy grassy couloir with a scramble move half way up. Continue along large blocks to summit. Beware of snow holes in winter.
 
2. North Ridge (1973) A. Ourom, L. Soet. Class 5.8. From Sphinx Glacier, gain the north ridge. Supposed to be a fine route, involving 6 leads of class 5 climbing on good rock. Crux is a small overhang on the top pitch.
3. East Face (1982) B. Fairley, J. Manual. Class 5. Approach via Sentinal and Phoenix Glaciers (240 m descent). Climb involves 3 rock bands separated by snow. Second rock step is 2 pitches, and nuts are required.

Trip Reports
62 McBride Traverse - Backbone of Garibaldi Park Robin Tivy
50 The McBride Traverse - An Alternate Route to the Squamish-Whistler Highway Jordan Peters
49 McBride Traverse - Diamond Head to Whistler - Route Description Robin Tivy
46 Traverses of Terror: Diamond Head to Whistler via the McBride Range Sandra McGuinness
42 McBride Traverse - Whistler to Diamond Head Kurt Fickeisen

Subject Trips
Sphinx Hut Trip

Topo Maps
Bivouac Backcountry Series - Garibaldi Park Area Clark Geomatics 1:50000 25 m
Garibaldi Provincial Park ITMB Publishing Ltd. 1:50000 40 m 

Placename Photos
15 View South-southeast from The Black Tusk Steve Sproule
9 Deception Pinnacles from SW Drew Brayshaw
6 Castle Towers and the Sphinx from Primo Bivi Alan Nurmeste