Insert Access / Route
1. East Ridge (1916) Tom Fyles, J. Fyles. 5.8 AD-. Approach the east ridge by bushwacking north through mature forest from the Tantalus Hut. A few 3rd class moves are needed to gain the ridge crest at it's eastern end. There is a good campsite here. Continue up the glacier on the N side of the ridge to a prominent notch. Climbing out of the notch is the crux, a short steep 5.8 hand crack and then another short pitch of 5.4. Above, the ridge is a pleasant mix of 3rd and 4th class on very solid rock. Descending the route is the most straightforward way down.
2. SW Ridge (1914) Basil Darling, A Morkill. Class 3. Approach via Lambda Lake trail from Tantalus Hut. Veer north from the Russian Army Camp (directly below Serratus-Ionia basin) to the Serratus-Alpha col. Climb initially loose rubble to gain the SW Ridge, which is followed to the summit. Parties ascending the East Ridge sometimes downclimb the SW Ridge to return to the Tantalus Hut.
3. South face Class 4-5. Several variations exist. There is a prominent snow gully on the right side of the face. A spur or buttress reaches over halfway up the face to its left. On the far left, long snow slopes lead almost to the summit crest. Late in the season the snow routes will melt out and provide class 4-5 rock climbing.
4. NW Ridge (1969) Fred Douglas, Paul Starr. Class 4-5. Reached by dropping down about 200m north from Alpha-Serratus col and traversing to where the ridge steepens next to the glacier on the north side of Alpha. Alternatively, traverse along glaciers from the east ridge of Alpha. There is a prominent gendarme halfway up that involves class 5 to traverse or it can be bypassed (presumably easier). The gendarme has been climbed in a direct line from the glacier- Guide Buttress, to 5.7 (FA: H Bluer, C Cairns, M Down, J Simpson, June 27, 1978).
5. NE Ridge (1968) R Cuthbert, A Purdey. Class 4-5. Gain the rib between the two glaciers on Alpha's north side from the east ridge. The lower portion below the head of the glaciers can by bypassed by traversing high. Above the high traverse it is mainly class 4, below it is class 5.
6. North buttress (August 23, 1981) B Fairley, D Serl. mid 5th. Take the high traverse from the east ridge. At the central buttress, the route begins on its east side, right of gully/chimney. Five pitches on fine rock. |
