The standard route is also the route of first ascent -- the West ridge, first climbed in August of 1919 by J.W.A. Hickson with his guide and friend, Edward Feuz, Jr. When I climbed Sir Douglas in 1980, I used the Toft/Reasoner variant of the Boles et al. route up the NW face. In this and similar instances the W ridge is used as the descent route.<p>The only real difficulty with Sir Douglas is not setting aside enough time for its ascent and descent: although strong parties leaving the Burstall Pass parking area by headlamp, might be able to climb this peak in a day, they will be travelling...

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